![]() Another almost-but-not-quite effort was a princely plate of chewy black squid-ink-infused rice that came spangled with strangely listless shellfish (and some killer fried cod). When I tried it again, the fish was fine but the too-aggressive aji amarillo element overshadowed it. One night’s hamachi roll seemed insufficiently fresh. Where things veered off course on my visits were the maki rolls, curiously enough. Marinated beef hearts at Pacha Nikkei Raquel Natalicchio/Staff photographerįor simpler thrills, Fukuda does a pristine tiradito of sliced yellowtail in a cool, brisk yuzu leche de tigre, with rocoto chile gel and micro shiso leaves or a tuna-based Ceviche Nikkei that adds spicy drops of chorizo oil to the leche de tigre bath. Crispy wagyu croquettes with soft innards are a fine newer item. ![]() I loved both the dense-textured beef-heart skewers here, served with a huancaina sauce and another made with huacatay, the Peruvian “black mint ” and the softer, richer beef short rib skewers (asado de tira), their smoky aji panca chile glaze spangled with toasted sesame seeds. But I have a friend who regularly treks to Pacha Nikkei for a solo lunch of Chirashi Ceviche, and I can see why. ![]() At thirty bucks, there’s enough for two to sample. ![]() Add a micro-rubble of toasted cancha, the Peruvian popcorn, and you have textural liftoff. Slick cubes of tuna, yellowtail and salmon meet slices of sweet Hokkaido scallop and octopus, pops of salmon roe and springy nuggets of choclo, the Peruvian corn.Ĭrisped spindles of nori gather at the center of the dish, while translucent frills of a mauve-y seaweed new to me sidle longside. Here, the fish, shellfish and rice rest in a pale yellow leche de tigre made with dashi, which adds a subtle marine dimension to the tartness and the golden aji-limo tones. From its splodges of purple-olive puree to its bright quail egg and turrets of avocado sauce, its look is as vivid as its flavors.Ī pinwheeling variety of flavors and textures also marks Fukuda’s Chirashi Ceviche, a rambunctious play on the mixed raw-fish assortment over sushi rice. That plan should include the Causa Limeña, a cold plate of chicken salad on potatoes whipped with Peruvian aji chile that seems to have landed on the table from outer space. It helps to go in with a plan, so as not to sit bewildered by all the possibilities. Fukuda keeps adding specials with little luxury spins to his core document of ceviche, maki rolls, small plates, hot plates and omakase options. The menu is just as personal in its meanderings and state of flux. The latter depicts a long-ago family reunion when his immigrant forbears gathered on the East Coast. They run from a street-art/manga aesthetic that filters right down to the cocktail coasters, to a dining alcove set in a wraparound, sepia-toned photomural. The amusing multicolored tassel hanging that greets guests at the entrance evokes traditional Peruvian textiles.Įven those dramatic murals were born of Fukuda’s early experience as a graphic designer. The glossy slate blue and charcoal tones were picked by his sister, an interior designer in Peru. Ventilation: Best toward the front entrance in the main dining room and bar area.Įverything about Pacha Nikkei’s angular dining room, with its long sweep of bar and its eye-popping graphic wall murals, feels personal. Outdoor seating options: Covered side patio in progress. What to order: Chirashi ceviche hamachi tiradito Ceviche Nikkei causa Limeña Wagyu croquettes beef-heart anticuchos beef short-rib skewers with aji panca glaze lucuma cheesecake churros house-made Andean fruit ice creams Pisco Sour Pisco-nic cocktail Choco Pisco cocktail. Mixtape: South American, Latin American traditional and pop. Who’s there: Youngish west-side couples, family groups, South American expats, ceviche enthusiasts. Vibe: Vivid, chic-on-a-shoestring dining room and bar good for everything from date nights to solo counter lunches. Food: Modern Peruvian Nikkei cuisine influenced by Japanese ingredients and techniques, with a particular emphasis on ceviches and tiraditos.
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